From left: Julie Ashba, Brett Ashba, Tara McCrackin and John McCrackin enjoying the Lake Michigan sunset.
By Mark Varenhorst, MCP contributor
MANISTEE — On the evening of Saturday, June 6, I arrived at the berth of The Princess along River Street in downtown Manistee. I was there to accompany the crew and passengers on a sunset cruise.
I met owner Wally Laaksonen and boarded at about 7 p.m.
A little side note here: I had already been in Manistee at 7 a.m. to get on The Princess because I neglected to read the part about it being a “sunset cruise.” Yes, Wally, I was there 12 hours early because I was eager to get to know The Princess and her crew.
The Princess is a humble little ferry built in 1973. She is a 65-foot-long, all-aluminum vessel powered by twin diesel engines. Passengers are free to wander the upper decks or, if the wind becomes bothersome, step downstairs into the enclosed cabin and enjoy the ride. By the way, it is quite a nice ride.
Capt. Scott VanHoven
This was my third trip aboard The Princess. The first was when she operated out of Ludington a few years ago. I honestly feel that is something Ludington should not have let slip away, but that is a story for another time.
My second trip was earlier this season when she left her winter berth in Ludington and returned to her operating berth on the Manistee channel. It is a very nice location, right off River Street.
Did you know that if you spend a lot of time on River Street, you are considered a “River Rat”? I learned that from my wife, Heidi, who was born and raised in Manistee and graduated from Manistee High School.
Once aboard, I met Laura Bjork. That is a very Swedish name. Bjork handles customer service, tours and just about anything else that needs attention, including stocking provisions for passengers. She is always helpful and easy to talk with. Then again, aboard The Princess, you will find most of the crew are friendly and easy to relax around.
Dick hands Cory Jerome and Brian Ferguson working on the dock
After spending some time talking with Laaksonen and Bjork, I caught up with Brian Ferguson, who took me below deck to show me the engine room and explain how things worked.
As he pointed out various equipment, he would ask, “Well, you know how this works?”
“No,” I replied.
After several exchanges like this, I noticed a puzzled look on his face.
Then a voice came from the top of the ladder.
“Pardon me, are you Scott?” Laaksonen asked.
“No,” I replied. “I’m Mark with the Mason County Press.”
Cruise director Cassie Miller narrates on the Manistee River
My identification badge had slipped behind my vest.
Laaksonen laughed, along with Ferguson.
“We thought you were the relief captain reporting aboard,” Ferguson said.
My mistake, gentlemen. I assumed you knew who I was. Still, I appreciated Ferguson taking the time to show me the engine room.
Ferguson serves as bosun aboard The Princess and also works in the engine room and as a deckhand. He is a wealth of information about Great Lakes shipping, having worked aboard freighters and even the PM 41 out of Ludington.
If you have a question about Great Lakes shipping, Ferguson is the man to ask.
Originally from Flint, Ferguson now lives in Manistee and works as a social worker for the State of Michigan. He also volunteers aboard the museum ship City of Milwaukee in Manistee, where my friend Mike Braybrook also volunteers.
As passengers boarded, I believe the count reached 25 for the evening cruise.
At about 8:15 p.m., departure time, the horn sounded and The Princess eased away from the dock.
I had brought a coat, knowing it can be noticeably cooler once you clear the breakwater and enter Lake Michigan.
For those unfamiliar with being on the lake, come prepared. Temperatures drop quickly once you leave shore. A sweatshirt or windbreaker is a good idea. Of course, you can always move down one deck into the enclosed cabin, where the wind is no longer an issue.
Personally, I prefer the upper deck because I like to see everything passing by.
Bartender Ashley Towns
I watched Ferguson and deckhand Cory Jerome cast off the lines as we slipped away from the dock. Then I made my way to the pilothouse, where I spent time with the captain and the relief captain, who had indeed reported aboard.
Jon Meyers was the captain for my cruise. Meyers has been with The Princess since operations began in 2020 in Ludington when Laaksonen’s father started the business.
Meyers is from the Detroit area and has spent nearly 18 years working in charter boating. His experience showed. He carried himself with a calm confidence that made passengers feel at ease.
He was training relief captain Scott VanHoven, who has a similarly reassuring presence.
Capt. Jon Meyers
VanHoven, whose Dutch surname would have made my father smile, is from the Fountain area, where he moved with his daughter three years ago. He is a professor at Grand Rapids Community College. When Laaksonen asked if he would like to serve as relief captain, VanHoven thought, “Why not? I’ve always wanted to do something like this.”
As we traveled north along the Manistee shoreline, I chatted with both captains.
Later, I stopped below deck for a drink and met Ashley Towns, the bartender aboard The Princess. Her face lights up when she talks with people.
I mentioned that I had gone to school with a couple of people named Towns.
It turns out Bob Towns is her uncle.
Wherever I go doing this job, I seem to run into people who are friends with, related to or know someone from Ludington. That’s just how it works.
Towns also lives in Manistee and is in her second season aboard The Princess.
As I headed back to the upper deck, I decided it was time to talk with a few passengers and see how they were enjoying the trip. Besides, I enjoy meeting new people.
And they couldn’t run away. They were on a boat.
I soon met Brett and Julie Ashba. They appeared to be having a great time and were willing to talk with me. Honestly, I gave them the option.
The Ashbas are from Grand Rapids, and we had a pleasant conversation about travel, meeting friends and, naturally, the S.S. Badger in Ludington.
During our conversation, I learned they own Oakfish Studio in Grand Rapids, where they create stained-glass and woodworking pieces. After seeing photos of their work on a phone, I remarked that my wife would love it.
That led to me getting a business card so I could visit their website later.
As we talked, we were joined by their friends, John and Tara McCrackin.
The McCrackins maintain a home in Manistee that they have been renovating while also keeping their primary residence in the Grand Rapids area.
Both couples were enjoyable to talk with, and the time passed quickly. Before long, The Princess was approaching the north pier.
As we entered the harbor, I could still hear Cruise Director Cassie Miller narrating points of interest.
Miller wears many hats aboard The Princess. She serves as cruise director, DJ, ticket taker, tour guide and master of ceremonies. She does an outstanding job explaining local landmarks while keeping the music going.
A Manistee native, Miller teaches physical education for Manistee Area Public Schools.
The cruise itself was delightful.
I enjoyed a beautiful sunset while standing with the Ashbas and McCrackins, taking photographs as the sun disappeared beyond the horizon.
Refreshments were available aboard, along with a full bar. The smell of fresh popcorn seemed to follow me throughout the evening. I noticed it almost from the moment we left the dock.
I kept wanting to grab some, but work comes first.
Later, as we returned to the dock, I watched Meyers carefully guide The Princess to the pier while Ferguson and Jerome secured the lines.
With one final blast of the horn, we were tied up and passengers began disembarking.
I said my goodbyes to the crew and let them know I would likely be back from time to time to see how things were going.
This was a fun, relaxing trip and one worth putting on your schedule.
Laaksonen and his crew provide an enjoyable way to spend a couple of hours on the water. You can tell when people genuinely enjoy what they are doing, and that enthusiasm is contagious.
I couldn’t help but think that Laaksonen could use another boat.
Ludington missed an opportunity when it lost The Princess. It would be nice to someday see a sister vessel operating on Pere Marquette Lake and Lake Michigan while The Princess continues serving Manistee.
Such an arrangement would provide another reason for people to visit both communities and give residents of the two sister cities even more opportunities to enjoy the lakeshore.
That can never be a bad thing.
Perhaps one day that opportunity will come again for both Laaksonen and Ludington.
For more information about The Princess and its cruises, visit manisteeharbortours.com.
Try a daytime cruise or, better yet, my favorite, the sunset cruise.
Move your feet, grab your seat and enjoy one of the best parts of life along Lake Michigan.
This Great Lakes Boat Blog is presented by Manistee Harbor Tours, operator of the Princess of Manistee. Book your cruise at www.manisteeharbortours.com.
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